E. GUCEWICZ | Fashion Design and Creative direction

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The Delightful Perversity of "Anti-Wholesomeness"

I WANT TO INTRODUCE THE TERM “ANTI-WHOLESOMENESS” TO YOUR VOCABULARY. You need this term because the expression ‘bad taste’ just doesn’t cut it anymore. “Bad taste” can even turn out pretty well sometimes. But with the much more solid “Anti-wholesome” you know where you stand- you are equipped with a term with much more flavour. Picture this: Something that masquarades as something that’s supposed to be good for you but is so hidously off-mark, so awfully polluting, so terrible that it's almost endearing.

Here’s an everyday example: The quintessential American supermarket, specifically their deli counters, specifically the ones of which have a "provincial european" styling makeover featuring things like fibreglass awnings and faux ABS plastic terracotta tiles. The overall resulting presentation feels ten times worse than simply presenting the meat in the usual glass and steel like the rest of the store. “Bad taste” would just cover poor aesthetic considerations, but this is truly “anti-wholesome” because a deli provides a epicurean wholesomeness ina setting of hearty authenticity that is supposed to be good for you and yet the reality is fibreglass and hydrocarbons: things that are not synonymous with a healthy lifestyle. One could argue it’s capitalism's subtle nod to faux authenticity, a sort of ultimate form of inappropriately poor taste, but, honestly, isn’t there something laughably charming about it?

Plastic ‘garnish’ divider.

Now, one can't help but wonder: how could they have let it happen? Surely someone in the executive level of Harrods, or a successful building developer cottoned on to what’s going on a long time ago? Is that why ‘anti-wholesomeness’ can be such a strong feeling for some of us, because it feels like these establishments are blissfully mocking our intelligence, cheating us? Or is it another worrying thing : are they genuinely clueless and it’s just another offensive reminder of capitalism’s chronic lack of meritocracy? Perhaps it’s a cocktail of both, a dual mockery of consumer and self. 

‘Anti-wholesomeness’ isn't just a commercial spectacle; it's can be a personal lifestyle choice too. Until recently across the western world there was a trend for purity rings: a physical symbol of retaining chastity until marriage : a material representation of purity. However there were reports that some of the young devouts were “only doing anal” as a way of circumnavigating this temporary inconvenience. It's not difficult to imagine this becoming a fetish in its own right…Tension from artifically contrived restraint and relief of finding release in other ways… all the while getting you further and further from the original devotional point…. and without delving deeper, i’ll hint at the oddities of some religious followers who sidestep their core tenets with bewilderingy complex enthusiasm.

Vetements 2015

“My beloved will wait” purity ring.

But here's the rub: Its appropriately perverse that in its unyielding nature ‘Anti Wholesomeness’ has an allure. Demna Gvasalia's work at Vetements (and definitely a bit at Balenciaga) chaotic blend of irony and post-postmodernism has us questioning reality. Yet, in this confusing landscape, there's a silver lining: Why fight it? Just embrace the absurd. Laugh at yourself. laugh at ourselves as a whole. Or maybe the kindest thing is to just laugh at it all. Instead of fighting the inescapable tide of anti-wholesomeness, why not indulge? Give a cheeky nod to Vetements' ironic branding ; Relish the pots of relish packaged in the industrially produced faux clay jar complete with soft red LDPE plastic lid that vaguely resembles a old wax seal : Because for sure we can’t beat the delightful insane absurdity of anti-wholesomeness, it's a phenomenon that is probably here to stay- so at the very least lets reserve the term for naming this very special form of bad-taste. Whether you are a Demna or a deli designer, rather than resist, find humour in the gaps between intention and reality- you may incidentally profit very nicely from this madness if you just try holding your nose and plunging into ‘anti-wholesomess’ yourself, as J G Ballard also said : “In a completely sane world, madness is the only freedom”.